Alishan’s Train Lunch for Lumberjacks: Chiayi County, Part 2
Once a lifeline for transporting lumber during Japan’s colonial rule in Taiwan, the Alishan Forest Railway has since become a breathtaking mode of slow travel. In part two of our five-part series “Where’s the Chiayi County Chief Taking Us?” Andrew Ryan boards the iconic Alishan Forest Railway and uncovers the story behind Taiwan’s best-known train station meal. He also encounters the goddess Mazu, an unlikely passenger on one of the first trains to the summit after a 15-year hiatus for renovations. WATCH more episodes here. https://www.taiwanplus.com/news/taiwan-news/wheres-the-mayor-taking-us [Taiwan’s Mayors and County Chiefs] Taiwan is home to 13 county chiefs, six mayors of special municipalities (New Taipei, Taipei, Taoyuan, Taichung, Tainan and Kaohsiung) and three mayors of provincial cities. These elected officials serve a maximum four-year term and can be re-elected for one additional term. The first episodes of the series aired prior to the local elections in 2022.
*This AI-generated summary is based on reporting by TaiwanPlus and verified by newsroom fact checkers. Learn more about our policy here.
The Alishan Forest Railway, one of Asia’s most renowned high-mountain railways, is back on track after 15 years of repairs following Typhoon Morakot. The restoration is the centerpiece of Chiayi County’s efforts to attract international travelers.
The railway was completed in 1912, during Japan’s occupation of Taiwan. It was originally constructed to transport lumber, but now serves as a major tourist attraction.
“This railway is quite special,” said Chiayi County Chief Weng Chang-liang, noting the engineering marvels that allow it to traverse mountainous terrain.
It features spiral tracks, curved alignments, and zigzagging switchbacks that help trains climb 2,400 meters over a 78-kilometer journey.
In 2009, Typhoon Morakot devastated sections of the line, making parts of the railway inaccessible for over a decade. Thanks to extensive restoration efforts, the full route is operational again.
Two new trains have been introduced: the Formosensis, crafted entirely from Taiwanese cypress, and the Vivid Express, adorned with artwork inspired by the collared bush-robin, a native bird of Alishan.
Beyond its engineering feats, the railway offers visitors a slice of history and culture.
At Fenqihu Station, travelers can sample the famed biandang (boxed lunches) that date back to the railway’s logging days. Lin Chih-chung, a fourth-generation diner owner, preserves the legacy by naming his lunches after railway workers.
“We have deep feelings for the culture and people, and we don’t want these memories to fade away,” Lin said.
One of the most popular lunches, the Engine Driver, features chicken, rice, fresh local vegetables, and tea-pickled plums.
“Our biandang contain the essence of the forests and flavors of the railway,” Lin added.
The railway has also become a vehicle for unique cultural experiences. Recently, the goddess Mazu, a revered figure in Taiwanese culture, boarded one of the first restored trains, bringing blessings to those along the route. “
As Chiayi County positions itself as a hub for cultural and natural tourism, the Alishan Forest Railway stands as a testament to resilience and innovation. The restored line, with its breathtaking views and rich history, offers travelers a slow journey through time and terrain.
What’s next?
The series continues with a deeper look at a root the locals call “green gold”—a spicy condiment that captures the essence of Alishan’s culinary heritage.
